PARIS > LYON > MARSEILLE

1981 | France

Journey

More Info

Length in km: 748 km
Name of the train: TGV InOui & TGV Ouigo

TGV... famous the world over, these three letters have redrawn the map of France and triggered a revolution not is not only technological, but geographical and cultural as well. Seventeen years after the launch of Japan’s Shinkansen, the birth of French high-speed rail in 1981 was a shock to the traditional railway system, marking the beginning of a new chapter for both the French network and transport worldwide. The first TGV brought Paris and Lyon – the two largest cities of France – closer together, and in so doing changed both the perception of distance and the travel habits of French citizens. In 2001, the TGV reached Marseille, bringing the beaches and exceptional sunshine of the Mediterranean coastline within three hours of Paris. This line, associated with holidays and vacation getaways, is without doubt the most iconic of all French lines, offering a wealth of landscapes that never fail to impress.

Unique settings for rail stations
Three generations of TGV
Arriving at Lyon
Arriving at Marseille
The TGV effect

Leaving Paris

Contoured by the meanderings of the river Seine, Paris lives to the beat of its two banks, districts, elegant avenues, narrow neighbourhood streets, museums, cafe terraces, and unforgettable gastronomy. In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, as Hemingway described, “Paris is a moveable feast”. Whether travelling by TGV to Lyon, Marseille, the Alps, Switzerland, or Italy, passengers board at Gare de Lyon station. Standing on an artificial knoll, a stone’s throw from the Seine, this railway building remains as a symbol of the past, part of a vast district that has undergone multiple renovations and modernisation. Huge flagship facilities like the sports arena at Bercy and Opéra Bastille have appeared, while the famous Bercy wine warehouses have been converted into gardens, shops, and restaurants.

Rejuvenated time and again, Gare de Lyon has held out against all these changes all the while improving accessibility. A pedestrian esplanade leads to the station’s stunning façade. At holiday times, the busy station comes alive, delighting passengers with its immense glass roof, offering hints of Mediterranean destinations: palm trees on the platforms and a long gallery of paintings depicting iconic Mediterranean landscapes of cities along the line. The heart of the station can be found in the dining rooms of gastronomic restaurant Le Train Bleu, where flamboyant mouldings, gilding, and frescos evoke the railway network of the Belle Époque.

High-speed in France

In the 1960s, the railway sought a new way forward. The rail’s green coaches held little appeal over the automobile or the aeroplane, which had become a serious rival with the onset of its famous Caravelle. The aerotrain designed by French engineer Jean Bertin was welcomed with great enthusiasm at first by public authorities. This land hovercraft was for a time considered to represent the future of transportation! The wheels of this steel monster were replaced by air suspension, floating above ground at 422 km/hr. Incompatible with the existing railway network, and too costly and difficult to develop, the project was shelved before seeing the light of day.

Spurred on by the Japanese Shinkansen, in service since 1964, the French Railways (Société des chemins de fer français, SNCF) was successful in developing an alternative system of high-speed, the TGV. The first trials were created using an experimental train powered by gas turbines, able to reach speeds up to 260 km/hr. But the 1973 oil crisis imposed a change in strategy, leading to a system of electric traction, with power distributed by catenaries. The result was the introduction of the first high-speed electric train, known as “Zebulon”.

Faster & faster

Along the Paris-Lyon line, speeds progressed from 260 km/hr (1983) to 270 km/hr in 1985, then to 300 km/hr in 2001.

A first in Europe

Paris-Lyon was the first line chosen for operating a high-speed train, preferred over the Paris-North route, which would require the construction of the Channel Tunnel. Expectations were high. This train, which now ran at 260 km/hr rather than 160 km/hr, would halve the journey time between these two most important economic regions and ease congestion on a saturated railway network. A first section is inaugurated on 22 September 1981, and the second followed two years later. The blazing orange TGV connecting Paris and Lyon in two hours dominated newspaper headlines: “Save time over time” (Gagnez du temps sur le temps) proclaimed the advertising campaign that accompanied the launch. This first French high-speed line was a source of great national pride, and proved such a success that SNCF continued the adventure, extending the line past Lyon to the east, then on to Marseille in 2001.The Mediterranean coastline, which attracts thousands of French visitors every summer, was now a mere three-hour journey from Paris.

A three-part epic saga

The singular nature of this first high-speed line lies in its selected route – as straight as possible and 20% shorter than the old line. Following this path, trains no longer adhere to the meandering paths of rivers, and efficiency is paramount. The new line avoids all the major cities – Dijon, and Belfort or Switzerland (Lausanne) beyond, Mâcon or Bourg-en- Bresse – yet passengers can access theses destinations via junctions with the traditional network. Built on hilly terrain with a low population density, the route avoided major environmental issues. Only the wonderful site of the Lamartine Valley, the star of southern Burgundy, became the subject of protests that led to alterations to the route. In order to ease congestion at the Lyon railway hub, a new line was built, thus extending the line inaugurated in 1981 by skirting Lyon as far as Valence. This innovation saves time and provides a vital link to the Alps and to Geneva, Switzerland. The rugged terrain of the Monts du Lyonnais hillsides to the west of the city confirmed the need for this eastern bypass, and proximity to Lyon-St Exupéry airport has reinforced the appeal of this line. A windfall.
The final phase connecting Valence and Marseille was one of the greatest civil engineering projects of the 20th century: 500 structures, 13 kilometres of tunnels, advanced anti-seismic and anti-flood detection systems, and more. The history of its construction was tumultuous, due to the selected route. Running through regions renowned for their natural beauty, between the Rhône Valley and Provence, the line was hotly resisted by agricultural and environmental leaders, and the subject of many legal disputes. The main conflict arose from the producers of Côtes du Rhône, a classified fine wine, and those living near the river, already overwhelmed with heavy road, motorway, and rail traffic. The wine producers prevailed, and the route was shifted westwards to run alongside the Rhône, crossing four times back and forth. Every possible measure was taken to ensure that the works ran smoothly. Landscape architects took great care with the line’s surroundings, and all efforts were made to preserve rare animal species like the Bonelli eagle, local flora, architectural heritage, and reduce noise pollution. As the Rhône Valley is particularly buffeted by the Mistral, a fierce local wind, one million trees – planes, cypress, and pine – were planted on either side of the tracks to form a shield. Rail structures are equipped with windbreaks.

Paris-Lyon, the journey

Leaving the residential suburbs of the Paris region in its wake, the TGV races into the countryside through fields of wheat, oats and maize before entering Burgundy. Famous the world over for its vineyards and fine wines, this region linked its destiny with the kings of France back in the 16th century. A land where most villages are well worth a visit to their castles, their churches, or abbeys. Along this high-speed line, there is not a single tunnel, nor level crossing. The outstanding monument to Romanesque art that is Vézelay lies a few kilometres away, and Dijon concocts its gastronomic specialities in the privacy of elegant residences. Charolais cows graze in the low mountains of Morvan Regional National Park. Now passengers can glimpse the steeples of Cluny, home to the largest church in Christendom. Near this medieval city, construction works for the high-speed line unearthed the discovery of a Merovingian necropolis, with over 200 tombs. Vineyard houses in shades of ochre and brown herald the Lamartine Valley, homeland of the poet Lamartine and one of Burgundy’s most charming regions, studded with vines, wooded vales, and Romanesque churches. To the northeast of Lyon, the TGV crosses the river Rhône over a spectacular structure – La Côtière Viaduct (1,725 metres long). This vertiginous, cambered structure spans the national highway, the Lyon-Geneva railway line, the Sereine River, and a motorway! The train continues on to Valence, slowing down to stop off at the stunning TGV station of Lyon-Saint-Exupéry. Designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the station’s cantilevered roof spreads its two wings like a bird preparing to take flight. Light filters through a myriad of pyramid-shaped glass canopies. The station is connected to Lyon-Saint-Exupéry airport via a long pedestrian footbridge.

Lyon-Marseille, the journey

Leaving Lyon to the east, the TGV seems to set course for the mountains, yet it continues southwards to Valence, with the foothills of the Vercors as a backdrop. The innovative Valence station is an exceptional achievement, the first stop for direct trains running between Paris and Marseille! Cherry trees, peach trees, apricot trees… the Rhône valley is the orchard of France. Here and there wind turbines spin in the infamous Mistral, while ramparts of cypresses attempt to hold off this mad wind. Landscapes and villages perch atop hillsides redolent with the rich scents of Provence. Passengers may note in passing the clouds of white smoke signalling the presence of Tricastin nuclear plant, then cast a more admiring eye upon the “giant of Provence” – Mont Ventoux –, a famous waypoint along the Tour de France. The TGV crosses streams and rivers, large and small, by means of a series of superb structures in steel and concrete tinted to resemble the limestone massifs of Provence. One such example is the impressive 1500-metre-long double viaduct at Avignon, whose curving lines and pale tones pay homage to the white stone walls of the Palais des Papes. The walled city of Avignon, where seven Supreme Pontiffs of France lived before the Papacy was restored to Rome, is a feast for the eyes. The TGV crosses the line’s longest viaduct (1730 metres) at Ventabren, then another spanning the Arc Valley with its magnificent view of the renowned Roquefavour Aqueduct, a three-tiered stone structure. Sainte-Victoire, the majestic mountain so dear to the painter Cézanne, rises up as a backdrop to Aix-en-Provence. The Mediterranean appears in the distance, dotted with cruise ships, then the train enters a very long tunnel for nearly eight kilometres, and we arrive in the heart of the city, at Marseille Saint-Charles station.

→ TGV train travelling toward Orange on the Méditerranée high-speed line.

Unique settings for rail stations

Three contemporary stations mark the line between Valence and Marseille, each located in the open countryside a midst stunning landscapes. Some connect to city centres via links with the railway network; others are served by shuttle bus services. Valence TGV station, with its horizontal lines, faces the Vercors mountain range. Sober and functional, it stands at the junction of two railway lines –one conventional, the other high speed – and provides excellent links between TGV and regional trains. Fanning out around the station, Rovaltain Business Park specialises in digital business, green economy, and healthcare. A success story for regional economic development.

Avignon TGV station provides easy access to the historic city centre via a rail connection known as the “Virgule d’Avignon”. The station, designed to resemble an upturned white seashell, copes with the Mistral wind by means of a glass wall on its north-facing side and a concrete wall to the south. The emerging district of Avignon Confluence – anticipated for completion 2025 – is proof indeed that rail stations are magnets for urban development. Located in the garrigue, or backcountry, Aix-en-Provence TGV station has won over the inhabitants of northern Marseille, who can reach the station in minutes. Built of wood, metal, and glass, the station lies at the centre of a huge oval roundabout surrounded by parking areas. The wave-shaped roof mimics Sainte-Victoire, the iconic mountain whose profile rises up in the distance behind the station.

→ TGV arrival at Gare de Lyon, Paris, 2014.

Three generations of TGV

The sleek image of the first blazing orange TGV made news worldwide. Coaches hauled by a head-end locomotive were suddenly obsolete. The high-speed trainset differs from its ancestors with power units at both end and articulated passenger cars to ensure perfect rigidity throughout. The streamlined design and long ferret nose slicing through oncoming wind have defined this TGV. Designer Jacques Cooper drew inspiration from the front end of a sports car. Convinced that traditional passenger coaches had seen better days, he convinced the French Railways (SNCF) to opt for a fiery orange livery, the colour of choice during the 1970s.
In the era of high-speed, the shape of the trainset is designed to meet high precision criteria: no ridges, extremely low ground clearance, and an elongated nose for ideal air ingress. As for the interior design, airplanes provided inspiration: passenger cars with a central aisle, but no compartments. The train thus became accessible for all, though passengers had to accustom themselves to making reservations.
In the 1990s, a new class of TGV made its debut on the Paris- Lyon line. Clad in blue and silver, the “Atlantique”was designed by French genius and creative mind Roger Tallon. He went on later to design the third generation TGV, launched in 1996 as the “Duplex”. This double deck trainset is a response to the success of the TGV, as rail cars couldn’t be added on due to the fixed lengths of station platforms.
Two years after the Paris-Marseille route entered into full commercial service, the renowned fashion designer Christian Lacroix was chosen to revamp the TGV interiors. Comfort was priority: asymmetric shaped seats – purple and red in 2nd Class, grey and green in 1st Class –, creativity spaces, and dedicated areas for families, catering services, and more.
TGV has since become a brand with an identity forged by dominating speed and saving time. In 2000, the TGV logo was displayed on each power car: three letters in a single elegant flourish often imitated because, when rotated 180°, the logo becomes a snail! In 2001, “Take time to go fast” (Prenez le temps d’aller vite) became the most popular advertising campaign in France.

Arriving at Lyon

The entire city is structured around the confluence of the Rhône and the Saône Rivers. Located midway between the north and south of France, the personality of Lyon has developed around these two influences. The local architecture boasts hues reminiscent of Italy, while its gardens capture the essence of Beaujolais and Burgundy to the north. Blessed with an eclectic mix of neighbourhoods, the heartbeat of the city’s historic districts and high-tech sites alike pulsate with energy. Lyon, the capital of contemporary dance and gastronomy, is first and foremost home to one of the most dynamic urban economies in France. The station of the Lyon-Part-Dieu district was built as a terminus for the first TGV, and opened in 1983. The station stimulated urban development in the surrounding area to such an extent that La Part-Dieu district is now Lyon’s second city centre.

The station has become a national and international hub, with departures for Burgundy, the Alps, the Massif Central, and the Mediterranean, as well as Switzerland, Germany, Spain, Italy, and Belgium. During renovation work, the station reorganised its public transport services and redesigned bike paths, a pedestrian area, and green spaces. It has thus closed the gap between two districts previously separated by railway tracks.

Arriving at Marseille

Looking out towards the Mediterranean, Marseille has completely transformed itself over recent years. Designated “European Capital of Culture” in 2013, it has reclaimed its heritage, opened new cultural sites, and transformed urban wasteland into business, residential, or artistic districts. The Euroméditerranée project, which coincided with the arrival of the TGV Méditerranée, is an unprecedented initiative to drive urban regeneration, and has given the city a new lease on life. The Marseille Saint-Charles rail station was restructured. Inseparable from its monumental staircase that leads to the city, the station has doubled in capacity by means of a lateral wing extension to the 19th-century historic facade. This new passenger hall forms a long glass canopy decorated with giant artificial pine trees and columns that mirror the architecture of the original building.

The TGV effect

From the very start of operations, the Paris-Lyon line has been a huge commercial success, leading to a 30% drop in air traffic along the same route. The TGV has disrupted the existing transport offering, and changed travel behaviour in France, drastically altering the time scale of journeys. Better still, passengers have formed emotional ties with the TGV; indeed, today passengers speak of taking the TGV instead of the train! Dividing journey times in half has developed mobility between the north and south. From one city centre to another, the train has proved to be much quicker than air travel. Thousands of executives make it their second office; thanks to the TGV they can make round trips in a day. However, given the popularity of the Mediterranean, “leisure” remains the predominant motive for travel.

Every year, at the beginning of summer, Paris-Lyon station fills up with holiday makers seeking sea and sun. Likewise, in winter, when the TGV trains are taken over by skiers heading for the Alps. And in the case of cultural events in Provence – the international lyric arts festivals in Orange and Aixen- Provence, the theatre festival at Avignon, or the Nuits de Fourvière in Lyon, dedicated to the performing arts – the TGVs are sure to fill up. Today, Paris-Marseille is the most travelled high-speed rail line in Europe.